Originally distributed February 2009
The song by Sting that goes, “I’m an alien. I’m a legal alien…” has been in my head the past few days. Here’s why. In Swaziland visitors get 30 day visas when they enter the country. When I interviewed for this job the director and I discussed the visa issue. He said Swaziland issues work visas but they’re complicated to apply for and can take up to a year to get. Well, with the prospect of a 1yr position, it was entirely plausible then that they could apply for a work visa on my behalf when I arrived here and I still wouldn’t have it by the end of the year. In that light, the recommendation was to just get a new 30 day visa every month. They’ve had lots of 1yr contract staff who have done that.
With the opportunity to go to Kruger with new volunteers every month that’s a piece of cake. Every month I’d naturally leave the country and get a new visa when I reentered. In fact, in January, after less than 2 weeks in Swaziland I was already leaving the country for my first visit to Kruger. That’s where the lion charge took place.
Since returning from Kruger, we’ve been working in one of the Swazi game reserves tracking wildlife, and I’ve kept in mind that sometime in late February I’d need to cross the border briefly to get a new 30 day visa. That time would be this past weekend. So back at the lodge on Saturday I pulled out my passport to see the date of my last Swazi entry stamp. They’re all jumbled on the 1st 2 pages and some are hard to read. So I searched and searched for the one that was somewhere around January 23rd. The latest one I could find was January 16th. But, how could that be? As I racked my brain I came to a terrible conclusion. We had gotten back from Kruger on the 16th and spent several days back at the lodge before going to the game reserve for tracking work on the 23rd. Uh oh….
Saturday night I saw my coworker Roland, who’s one of the head staff and a local Swazi, at a party and I told him my predicament. He said, “What you should do is go to the border tomorrow. They probably won’t even look at it, they’ll just stamp it. If you run into any problems give me a call.”
Sunday morning I found out a 3 month volunteer also had an expired visa. She said she’d go with me. The lodge manager, who has the same issue I do and has been crossing the border for a new visa every month since last March, suggested that we bring disguises. Nothing major, just hats and plain clothes, so we wouldn’t be so noticeable going and coming back within a short period. She also suggested we hang out at the nearby gas station for a ½ hr or so in South Africa before coming back through so it wouldn’t be so obvious that we were just leaving to renew our visas. Clearly, unlike some other countries, they don’t have a rule that you have to be out of the country for a minimum amount of time before reentering. In Costa Rica, for example, you have to be out of the country for 72hrs before reentering but apparently not in Swaziland.
Sunday afternoon we headed out and got to the border in about 45min (Swaziland is a very small country). We got to the counter and handed the guy our passports. He opened mine up, scanned the ID page with a machine, typed in some info and stamped it. Whew! One down, one to go! He opened the other passport, scanned it and typed in some info. Then he said, “You’ve overstayed. Why have you overstayed?” I told him we had lost track of time, which is entirely true. I had incorrectly remembered when I had reentered the country from the Kruger trip. But this was not reason enough to let us go. He told us this was an offense and to follow him behind the counter and into a back room. Great…..
A woman came in and he went back out to the counter. The three of us sat down. She asked why we overstayed and why we were there. Now we had to lie. We told her we were tourists. We borrowed a friend’s car, which was true, and we were headed to Jo’burg and Pretoria for a while, which was not true. Long story short, she could’ve fined us each about $50 but instead gave us a warning. I was relieved until I heard the warning. Upon our return to Swaziland we would only get a 2 day visa. Ok, not good. Not good at all! She led us back out to the counter, stamped our passports and wrote in them “final warning.” Great, just great!
So we left the Swazi border post all freaked out and went to the South Africa post. We got our passport entry stamps there with no problem because they automatically issue 90 day multiple entry visas. Outside the border post we looked for the gas station where we were advised to hang out and couldn’t find it anywhere. We drove about 15 miles into South Africa and there was nothing but a few homesteads sprinkled around. On top of that, once in South Africa we lost our cell phone service. Great!
We had nothing with us—no overnight bags, no food, no map of South Africa and now no cell phones. We turned around and drove back toward the border. Once within range again we called the lodge manager and told her what happened. She called Roland and told him to call us. Outside the US some countries only deduct credit when you make calls or send texts, you don’t lose any credit when receiving calls or texts. But they charge a hefty rate for the calls you do make. So it wasn’t a good idea for us to start making a ton of phone calls.
At the South African border there was nothing there. So I parked in a dirt parking lot behind a row of produce vendors, and there we waited and contemplated our fate. My friend was in trouble but her situation was not as bad as mine. They offer 60 day visa extensions, which are easier to get than temporary residence visas, but you can only get them once. So if you get a visa extension you can’t just leave the country at the end of 60 days and get a new 30 day visa. Once you get an extension you have to leave for at least 6 months (see, here they have a set minimum!) before you can come back. So that would work for her, but it wouldn’t work for me. Plus, now that I had “final warning” tattooed on my passport I would probably get hassled every time I tried to get a new visa. So I was really worried.
A while later, Roland called and told us to go back across the border and get the 2 day visas. We would sort it out first thing Monday morning. He was already making phone calls to Senators and immigration people he knew (his family is well known and well connected). Ok, but we told this woman we were going to Jo’burg, so how are we supposed to show up without an explanation? He told us to tell her that we talked to our friend and he advised us that this is something to be concerned about and we should come back right away to straighten it out. Ok, makes sense. And it’s the truth, yay!
Bolstered with moderate confidence, we went back through the border post and got our stamps in Swaziland. The guy who processed us didn’t ask or say anything. Thank goodness! We were so relieved to be back in Swaziland. Swaziland is familiar. Swaziland is pretty safe. Swaziland is where all our stuff is and we have beds to sleep in and we know how to get there! I really can’t overstate how relieved I was to be back on the other side again.
Quickly wrapping up, Roland took our passports to Immigration first thing Mon morning and got us 30 day visas. Otherwise, I would be back in South Africa right now. He applied for a visa extension for my friend and I’ve spent the past two days amassing documents and materials for a temporary resident permit with help and support from various people, chief among them being my parents.
To end on a lighter note, one of the things I had to get was a medical certificate. The form says, “I hereby certify that I [a dr.] have examined
_Elaine Franklin_ and find that she is not mentally or physically defective in any way, that she is not an idiot, epileptic, insane, mentally deficient, deaf and dumb…” So now, folks, despite this recent blunder I have a certificate signed and stamped proving that I am not an idiot!