Biking with the Bulls

Originally distributed April 2009 as “Cute, exciting, horrifying”

In Hlane Royal National Park, where I live most of the time, I stay in a tent on the ground—no platform, nothing fancy, just your run-of-the-mill tent. I’ve been at Hlane for 6 weeks now so my tent hasn’t moved in all that time.  One morning when I was getting up I kneeled on the floor and I heard something move under the tent. My first thoughts were “lizard or scorpion” because they’re around and scorpions like to live under the tents. There was a crease in the floor of the tent so I pushed on it gently and I heard the critter move again. I kept doing this until I effectively chased the mystery animal out from under the tent. It turned out to be a cute little toad. It lived with me in that little space for about two weeks. Then it decided to move on. It was fun knowing I had a little neighbor there, even if I rarely saw it.

I recently bought a bike here in Swaziland and increased my happiness level by several orders of magnitude. Now I can get more exercise and move around more freely. My bike fits inside the kombi, so I brought it to Hlane right after buying it so that I can ride it out there during the week.

My first day riding it, I decided to leave the park and ride it on the tar road because there’s no place to ride it inside the park. Between the campsite and the road is a big game area, with hippos, rhinos, elephants, giraffes, etc, but no lions or big predators. You have to go through there to get to the road. Before I headed out, my field assistant Mduduzi told me he had seen elephants near the gates so I should be careful. Will do! As I pedaled out I looked carefully all around until I was again in safe territory at the other end. I rode along the road and had frequent adrenaline rushes as cars whizzed by at high speed. Mental note: next time ride against traffic so you can see them coming and see how much space they’re giving you.

On my way back into camp I remembered “elephants” so I was on the lookout. I went through the reception area and was cruising toward the gateway to the big game area. Screech!!! I grabbed the brakes and skidded to a stop on the dirt road. About 50yd to my left was a huge bull elephant. I got his attention by stopping so abruptly. Uh oh! I jumped off the bike and quickly turned it around to head the other way. He started coming after me. I ran, pushing the bike along next to me. There were two buildings near the gateway in the area I was in, Reception and a building across from it. I ran around the building opposite reception hoping that if the elephant couldn’t see me he’d stop his pursuit and move on.

Meanwhile a lady at reception was yelling to someone in siSwati. Then I saw the head ranger strolling down the drive, radio in hand, toward the elephant. I peaked around the building and saw the elephant standing in the gateway swaying back and forth as if he were thinking, “Should I chase that stupid girl or go back to browsing?” As the ranger approached, the elephant raised his trunk, appearing to sniff the air. There was chatter on the radio, which I’m sure the elephant could hear as well. He appeared to size up the situation and decide it would be in his best interest to stay inside the big game area and just continue on his way. After several seconds that’s exactly what he did. Thank goodness! I watched the elephant mosey along until he was a good distance away. But I stayed in my hiding place until the ranger gestured for me to go on through. Before I left though the receptionist cautioned me, “Be very, very careful or else you will become bulls@&$.” Thanks.